VIDEO TRANSCRIPT
Hi, guys. This is Matt with the YouTube channel BleepinJeep. Today, we're doing a DIY and Drive video tutorial with Pull-A-Part Used Auto Parts. Let's get started. All right, guys, what we're after today is the transmission. Now, the transfer case happens to be in the way, so we're going to get rid of that first and then the transmission. But the first thing that you need to do is remove the drive shafts, front and rear. I've already gone over that in a different video titled something about removing a rear axle. So if you need to figure that out, check out that video. So we're just going to start right here. So the transfer case is what selects your four-wheel drive or two-wheel drive or neutral. So we need to remove this, and to get to that, we're going to drop it down. So normally, on your own vehicle, you'd want to support your transmission and your transfer case with a jack before you release this crossmember. But for safety reasons, you're not allowed to bring a jack into the yard. So what we're going to do is just loosen the crossmember. And what that will do is bring the transmission and transfer case all the way down. So we'll just be leaning on the engine mounts. Be real careful here because that sucker's going to drop eventually. All right, and I probably should have done this beforehand. I didn't realize this crossmember was going to catch on the wheels right there. So if you're doing this, go ahead and do this first. And that is take the crossmember and disconnect it from the transmission. There is a rubber transmission support right here. And it bolts on under here through these holes. They're 1/2 inch or 13 millimeter. And I believe there's four nuts up in there. So now that it's kind of teetering here, I got to be real careful because that's going to come down on me at some point. OK, there's one. Two. Three. I want to get way back for this one. Four. All right, it's kind of wedged in those wheels. Let's see what I can do here. There. We got it. Now that the crossmember is out of there, it should be as low as it's going to go unless it's hanging up on the shifter mechanism. So let's give it a little wiggle. Oh, there we go. That brought it down. Now we can work on it--get to all the bolts. So now, we finally got it as low as it will go. Everything's being held up by the engine mount. So now, we can go ahead and loosen up all the electrical connections. This one has a little red safety. Push that aside. And then you can pull it off. So that's the speedometer. That shows you how fast you're going. This one over here goes to the O2 sensor on the catalytic converter. And let's see, what else do we have here? OK, so right here is the shifter linkage. I should be able to loosen this up with a 13 millimeter and then slide that off. Maybe not. If not, I've just got a little pry bar that you use for the door panels and things like that. Let's see if we can pry it off of that. There we go. Just got a little rubber grommet. And that thing clicks inside there. So that's free. Now, we have a breather line right here. So just pinch that with your pliers. And then pull that breather line off. And all these parts, you might want to take off and bring with you because you might need them when you get home. OK, I brought you up front here because I wanted to show you this. We're looking at the transmission pan. And this is the transmission mount, the rubber transmission mount. So we're going to need to take this off to get to the bolts that hold on the transfer case. So what you'll need is an 18 millimeter 6 point half inch drive socket. It's going to be helpful if it's a deep socket. All I've got is a shallow one. It's making it difficult. But I've gotten it on there. It's really tight. And I've been able to break it free. So hopefully now I can get a socket on there and get that sucker off. All right. Now, once you get that transmission mount off, try and separate this piece from the exhaust here. OK, I hope you can see these nuts here, but there are about six of them all the way around the transfer case, attaching the transfer case to the transmission. Now, there are about 14 millimeter, nine sixteenths, something like that. Some of them are hard to get to. We've got one here, one here, and there's one inside this hole. On the other side, there's another one in the hole. And on the bottom side, there's the one in the hole. But you're just going to find all six of those and loosen them up and take them off. Let's see what I can do in here. If you had one of those ratcheting wrenches, it might help a little bit on a few of these. But some of them are real hard to get to, and they might not fit a ratcheting wrench inside there. Once I've broke that one free, that was just finger tight. That's nice. All right, two down. Well, one and a half down. Four and a half to go. All right. That's six. Now, if we did everything right, it should be Free Willy from here. Let's give it a yank. See what happens. There it is. Look at that. OK, well now, it's time to start removing this transmission out of here. Now remember, if you want to pull the transmission and the transfer case all as one unit, you can also do that. So the first thing that we need to do is get rid of all these electrical cords, electrical lines. And there's a cable that goes up into the engine bay. Let's get rid of that too. So right here, there's a cable going to the throttle body. We need to disconnect that. A big set of pliers will help to pinch this closed, and then you can pull it out through there. And that's going to go with the transmission when it comes down. Then right here, I don't know if you can see that, but there is a wiring harness with three sets of disconnects that need to be disconnected. One of these goes to the neutral safety switch, and things like that. So let's go ahead and disconnect those so that they don't get tight when we drop that transmission down. All right, that's what those look like. There's one more right there. So other than those and this breather tube down here, the only thing else you need to worry about, I believe, is some of these zip ties. So the zip ties are just holding the wiring harnesses up in here. So go ahead and cut those zip ties out with a pair of wire cutters. Oh, there's one more thing I forgot about, and that's going to be the wiring harness for the CPS. There's going to be a sensor right on the top of the bell housing. Follow that up and right here on the top of the intake manifold will be another disconnect. If I can get to it. There we go. So that'll just disconnect that off the bell housing, keep it from breaking whenever it drops. So now, we're going to crawl up under the front. This is the oil pan. This is the bell housing. What we need to do now is get inside--of this little cover. There's a cover right here. We need to take that off so that we can remove the torque converter from the flex plate. So this is an 18 millimeter here. We also need to getup right here is the starter. We need to get that off. And there's about five or six bolts to remove this--cover right here. OK, I've taken four bolts off. And this is about to come off. Let's see if I can get it. That exhaust pipe is kind of in the way. But luckily, this plate just has an opening cut in it like that and not just a hole. So I was able to slide it through there. And now, I can get up into here. Let's shed some light on this here. So it's kind of hard to see, but right there--there's a bolt. And I believe there's probably four of these. What we need to do is take these bolts out. That attaches the flex plate to the torque converter. Once we do that, the transmission will be able to slide out after we take the other bolts out. But, so get your wrench on here. And take those loose. I'll show you how turn this over to get to the next ones here in a second. So when you turn these bolts over, if you try to do it slow, it's going to turn the whole engine over and you'll lose your bolt head. So what I just did there was just to take a hammer and tap it so that it didn't slowly rotate that around. Once you break it free, then you can go ahead and loosen it and back it out the rest of the way. All right, one down, unknown quantity more to go. Now, go ahead and keep these. You might need them. These are expensive if you order these. So I can't see any more bolts because they're around this ring. So what we need to do is turn the engine over to get to them. You can do this two ways. You can take a screwdriver, flat weighted screwdriver, and walk this over on these teeth. There are some teeth on this wheel. You just put your screwdriver on there and use leverage, like right here. Be careful. You don't want to strip it. But you can slowly walk that over. Couple of teeth at a time. So the other way to do it is to get a big wrench on the front side of the engine here and turn the harmonic balancer. And that'll also turn this over. OK, once it comes around where you can see that bolt again, or another bolt, go ahead and repeat the process. All right, I went ahead and did that four times. So I've gotten four bolts out. But what I want to do is keep rotating this and make sure that that's all of them. So I can see that it is because when I rotate the flex plate, the torque converter inside that hole is not turning with it. So now, it's time to move on. All right, here's one thing I just thought of. Since I don't have access to a jack, when I go ahead and pull that transmission off, this bell housing is going to get caught on the tailpipe. And that's going to cause more problems. So what I'm going to do is go ahead and cut the tailpipe off. You could unbolt it up here if you wanted to, but I've got this Sawzall. Once I do that, this will drop out. And that way, when I pull the transmission out, it won't get hung up. OK, let's go ahead and remove the starter while we're here. I could probably pull this without removing the starter, but it's just going to be one more thing in the way, so might as well. There's just two bolts, one top and bottom. All right, now there's two transmission lines that I almost forgot about right here and here. So they have quick connectors, so you should be able to just squeeze them together and pull them out. Should be. All right. Let's do this one too. All right, guys, we're getting real close. Now, I can actually sit under the transmission tunnel here. And we can see the rest of the bolts that need to be removed. Now, before you get too excited, if it's factory, these bolts right here are going to be in E-12 inverted Torx. So you need to go out and buy one of those. If not, you won't be able to get this done because that's the only thing that fits. It's like a torque socket but it's a female Torx. So that's what it is on these top two bolts right here. And then there's two more bolts. There's one--right there. I think that's a 18 millimeter. And then one on the exact opposite side. So let's get to this. There we go. On this side, I just took this little bracket off here in the shifter bracket. That gave me better access to this bolt, which is 16 millimeter. All right, now if we did everything right, it should be ready to go. The only thing that's holding it in now should be some pins, so those keep it from falling straight down. It's not just the bolts, but it's sitting in some recessed pins. Let's see if we can pull it out. I've got an tire underneath it to help protect it when it falls. Phew. All right, turns out I forgot one bolt up there on the transmission dipstick. Let's see if it'll go now. Come on. Nope, I missed another one. Where is it? Come on. Whoo. There it goes. It turns out it did miss one bolt up on that cover up there on the top driver's side of that cover. Phew. All right, guys, well that's how you pull a part a Pull-A-Part. Again, this is Matt with BleepinJeep. I appreciate you watching. We'll see you next time.
E-12 Inverted Torx Bit